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Author Topic: Information and instructions on MY-SIDE1 & MY-SIDE2 CV kits from ZOR.  (Read 4148 times)

zorproducts

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The answer to the question what is the difference.

MY-Side1 is an aluminum billet block in a unique configuration that has these features
Slide bore for best flow dynamics of wet air.
Water heating for fastest warm up times.
Fast reving.
Will not stall at any angle.
Interchangeable intake boot tube to fit the two choices of specific HD carbs. 1996-2006 40 mm or recent year new in box 44 mm.
Narrow paper element SP filter.
The installtion is entirely bolt on. Kit includes no carb or carb parts unless purchased separately.
Mileage estimate for average compression and non racing driving habits is mid 20s when using a 40 mm carb. Low 20s with a 44 mm carb.
The intake manifold does not have to be removed to install the MY-Side1. The 4 studs holding the existing downdraft carb on must be removed and the base surface clean to bolt the billet block securely to the intake manifold.

The MY-Side2 is a Suzuki 1.3 carbed intake (versions 1,2,3 & 4) that has been mill machine modified to accept a lowered billet block, then bored through the side to make the CV carb flow air faster. The wet air is closer to the valves causing the MS2 to rev faster, pull faster, get  to maximum speed quicker.

My experience has shown a MS1 with 44 carb keeps up with a MS2 with a used 40 mm. Both the kits include everything but a carb or carb parts. A mechanical fuel pump or an electric low volume fuel pump can be used. The e-pump requires a return filter and both methods reguire removal of the return line bypass check valve. The ZOR CV kits do not include fuel pumps.

List of parts - MY-Side1 -
Billet block with water fittings and hoses attached with clamps.
Base gasket and 4 block bolts.
3/16" Brackets with clamping rods to keep carb in place under the roughest conditions.
Interchangeable intake boot tube for either size carb.
3" OD Air ring for clamping engine air filter or DIY snorkle.
Fuel lines and fittings, fuel noses and clamps.
1-4 lb adjustable pressure regulator with bracket and hardware to install.
Vacuum line, vacuum caps, vent tubes, small valve cover filter to vent blow by pressure.
Custom idle screw, cable stop to cut off end of existing cable and attach to the end of the Samurai throttle cable.
48" long cable to adapt over to your provided used carb choke assembly.
Instructions with pictures and my cell phone number.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2016, 11:11:31 PM by zorproducts »
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zorproducts

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MY,
I have a few questions about the MY-Side 2.
1) Does the carb come modified and ready to install?
A)Yes
B) it needs to be timed with a timing light and main jet will most likely need to be removed and resized with a 1-60 drill bit set.
2) How far along does it come assembled?
A) You have to bolt it into head with provided paper gasket use your copperspray. Put the boot on, put two gaskets on and screw three bolts to attach a few parts. Cut a throttle cable end off and attach our provided cable stop. Install our regulator with screws provided. Attach hoses and clamps as provided. Install provided choke cable Normal install is hours. Instructions have my cell for detailed help.
3) I can only find instructions that hint at the MY-Side 2. Do you have a link to updated instructions?
A) No the copy cat people copy my instructions and I end up helping  competitors customers that detract from my limited time.
4) Is there a diagram of vacuum lines that can be removed? I have a samurai from california and want to get rid of as much extra stuff as possible as i am in Michigan and do not need that stuff.
A) There is only two vac lines left on the system. Charcoal canister to relieve tank fuel pressure and vac advance. Everything else goes away. 

Thanks for all the help. Look forward to placing my order.


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zorproducts

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Re: Information and instructions on MY-SIDE1 & MY-SIDE2 CV kits from ZOR.
« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2018, 09:39:47 PM »

1. If i use the included valve cover breather, do i just plug off the pcv valve on the intake manifold?
A) You have a few options.
a) Plug off PCV and let pressure from blow by escape out. Condensated blow by look like oil, smells like oil, feels like oil BECAUSE it is petroleum based and been cooked. Buts it is not your engine oil.
b) T from valve cover to PCV then a 14" hose to a breather filter. Blow by will re-enter engine thru PCV at high rpms and thru breather filter at lower rpms.
c) Connect hose from T into the cold air intake. This eliminates nearly all blow by gasses as all gunk and residue recycles over and over in the engine. Carb has to periodically be de-gummed.
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The PHLOOP

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Re: Information and instructions on MY-SIDE1 & MY-SIDE2 CV kits from ZOR.
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2018, 09:12:45 AM »

Any idea on what version my MS2 is? Number 44 if I recall correctly.  Maybe done by Jackson?
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zorproducts

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Re: Information and instructions on MY-SIDE1 & MY-SIDE2 CV kits from ZOR.
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2018, 09:07:57 PM »

Like old as dirt version
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Re: Information and instructions on MY-SIDE1 & MY-SIDE2 CV kits from ZOR.
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2018, 10:42:45 AM »

Guess it matches the owner then :-)))
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zorproducts

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What are the two brass tubes on the intake ring for?

Small one is for turbo later so if non turbo leave it capped off
Large one is for breathing non turbo air pressure based on elevation into the fuel bowl. Itís abandoned after turbo is introduced.
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zorproducts

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Charcoal can plumbing
I like to keep it to relieve pressure build up in the tank.
Large vac line closest to battery cut and cap it off permamently
Smallest vac line in middle connect to port next to PCV if oresent it not T into dizzy vac line.
Large vac line farthest from battery goes back to tank.
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zorproducts

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Q)  When you have sometime can you tell me what this stuff is and does it stay or go.

That reminds me of a song- stay or go now


A) Remove all vac lines
all dash pots and plastic valves
Plug each vacuum port on intake with a short hose that fits put screws in the the hose to make vac caps. Normal vac caps wonít last long.
The only two vac lines to be connected are small charcoal canister line and distributor.

No vacuum ports are used on the cv carb.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2018, 07:49:12 PM by zorproducts »
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