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Author Topic: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift  (Read 863 times)

The PHLOOP

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #15 on: January 15, 2016, 08:18:10 PM »

Kind of misleading in your part. When you show an install show it the correct way, please.  Lots of people google this  stuff and we do no want them miss informed.
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Overlord475

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2016, 12:01:47 PM »

Kind of misleading in your part. When you show an install show it the correct way, please.  Lots of people google this  stuff and we do no want them miss informed.

Misleading? I'm not selling anything nor have I implied that this is gospel how-to guide?

Either way I understand and have updated the previous post accordingly.
Please advise if you believe it to be more clear now for the googlers, ha.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2016, 12:34:14 PM by Overlord475 »
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Overlord475

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #17 on: January 20, 2016, 08:53:36 AM »

Not too much progress this weekend.

Installed new u-joints in the t-case to front axle drive shaft:




Dropped in the now clean front axle:




And got the tires mounted on the new wheels:

Rebel Racing Bandit II Outlaw wheels
Man. Model No: R62-5785
Size: 15 x 7
Bolt Pattern: 5 x 5.5
Hub Bore: 107.95mm
Offset: -6mm

Falken Wild Peak A/T Tires
Size: 235/75R15



Overlord475

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #18 on: January 22, 2016, 07:51:52 AM »

Small progress last night.
Installed the front ProComp 3000 shocks and spent the rest of the night cleaning the steering knuckles (no pics) of the 25years of gunked up grim.

Not sure about the top nut on the shock though. May have over compressed the bushings.
Thoughts / Input?


crazyatvn

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #19 on: January 22, 2016, 02:37:55 PM »

Bushing looks fine to me.  Always heard compress them till little fatter than the washers.

Overlord475

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #20 on: January 22, 2016, 03:24:03 PM »

Bushing looks fine to me.  Always heard compress them till little fatter than the washers.

Good deal! Thanks for the input.
Will leave as is.

Overlord475

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Re: Overlord475's Build Thread - OBDII 16v G16 Swap w/ PS & AC + OME 2.5" Lift
« Reply #21 on: February 01, 2016, 09:30:29 AM »

Made a bit of progress this Saturday on the front knuckle rebuild.

Started by fully de-greasing and de-gunking the balls:




Then installed the new shaft seals. Don't forget the sealant:




Then we re-greases the axle bearings before poking them in:




Don't forget to pack your king-post bearings:






Then, pack the knuckle ball with bearing grease. You'll need to get ~150g of grease in each ball.
Make sure to get plenty behind the ball as well. Rotating and moving the axle around as you pack it.



Once the housing is installed pack more grease into the voids (Not shown below).
Also, when installing the king-posts you will need to apply more Ultra Black sealant to the surface that mats to the housing:




The tricky part is getting the back seal, foam, and plats on. I did one side at a time threading in one bolt and then alighned the other two plates with the foam and threaded in a bolt. The system worked well. One lesson learned, put the foam ring and the seal on before packing the ball with grease.....




Took the time to paint a few things before putting them back on the car.
My wife de-greased them, roughed them up with 600 grit sand paper, hit them with 3 coats of self-etching primer, and then 3 coats of flat black.
They turned out great:




Put the rest of it back together now!



Overlord475

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Finally back to this project and have made a bit of progress:

Got everything wired up in the engine bay following MY's instructions included with the wiring harness provide.
No pictures of this. All went smoothly.

1. Finished up the PS brake rebuild.







« Last Edit: June 01, 2016, 10:36:22 AM by Overlord475 »
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Overlord475

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2. I did not like how the stock Sidekick air filter box fit into the engine bay so I made my own intake setup:

Bought some 2.75" OD tube adaptors, air cone filter, and a section of tubing used for turbo intercoolers with a 45 bend in it.
Used a 3/8 x 1/4 NPT  reducing bushing (McMaster Carr PN: 50785K143) and a firewall wire grommet from AutoZone for the air temp sensor.

Cut the stock intake pipe off upstream of the flex section and fitted everything up.







Overlord475

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3. Installed the secondary oil pressure sensor that came with my auxiliary gauge set. To be honest I am not sure how accurate this set up is going to be because I am not confident that the pressure will be translated to the sensor well due to the extended nipple length and the sensor being placed outside of the direct steam of the oil flow in the block. We will find out.

There is a pre-tapped 1/4" BSPT threaded hole in the side of the block on the DS right next to the stock oil pressure switch. 
Retain the stock plug incase you need to remove this setup someday.

I used a 2" long 1/4"BSPT x 1/4"NPT threaded brass nipple (McMaster Carr PN: 5832T132) and a 1/4" x 1/8" brass reducing coupling (McMaster Carr PN: 50785K181):




Overlord475

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4. Installed the clutch cable bracket, but it had to be modified.
The stock Sidekick bracket no longer fit with the ZOR motor-boat motor mount kit.

I notched a piece out of the bracket as needed.
I also had to reduce the length of the forward M10x1.25x25 bolt (closet to the front of the car) to clear the motor mount:






Overlord475

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Now on to the bigger items:

5. The steering column had to be modified to accommodate the larger Sidekick power steering box.
I used the front side of the stock Sidekick shaft and the rear section of the stock Samurai shaft.

This modification also potentially increases the safety of a front end collision as the drive shaft now has a "crush tube" section that will collapse instead of shoving the steering column into the driver seat area inside the cabin of the Zuk:

Here is a pic of the Sidekick section:



Here is a pic of the stock Samurai steering column trying to fit with the new Kick PS box:




Now for the modifications

Disclaimer: I am no welder to be sure....

First, the stock Samurai shaft will need to be separated by drilling out the two welds that hold the larger and smaller diameter section to each other.
 


Retain the smaller diameter section.
You will now need to mock this smaller Samurai diameter section up with the Sidekick section in the engine bay to determine the required lengths.

The Samurai section will need to be cut down to fit and prep'd for welding.
I was provided a large nut by MY at ZOR for this part.

Here are all the pieces laid out after cutting:




After welding:



After Painting:



And, installed. This part will take a while and some muscle. Use a flat head to hammer into the fork of the u-joint at the firewall to spread the fork to allow the splines of the Samurai side of the shaft to "slide" in:




Overlord475

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6. Now for the part that has taken the most thought on the project so far.

Because I am retaining AC and adding power steering the stock DS radiator bracket had no hope of bolting to it's stock location.
Because of this much modification has to be done to support the radiator / AC condenser on the DS.

I decided to modify the stock bracket, and to face it in the same orientation as it is from the factory.
This approach allowed me to maintain the stock coolant overflow mount and all radiator and AC condenser bolt hole locations.

The stock bracket was cut down to length as needed to clear the larger Sidekick PS box.
I then made a bracket that used the same mounting holes as the condenser bracket:



This fabricated bracket was then bolted to a piece of square tube that was welded to the front lower 2" cross tube that runs behind the front bumper. This square tube was welded to this 2" tube and again at the top.


Here is a picture of my first attempt at making the square tube section of the bracket.
(This piece ended up being used for welding practice; which as the pictures shows I needed, ha)




I ended up making a different more accurate one but this picture gets the point across.
I used a 2" whole saw and a drill press to make the lower radius cut which fits around and is welded to the 2" cross tube on the car
I then drilled the two bracket holes at the required height to line up with the stock AC condenser mounting holes.

Here are a few pictures of everything bolted up before paint:




And a few pictures of my crappy, but very strong welds on the square tube (weld yet to be painted):




In addition to the above you will also need to notch the AC condenser bracket and radiator to clear the Sidekick PS box:



« Last Edit: May 31, 2016, 08:15:37 AM by Overlord475 »
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melbakid

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Great write up. 2up I am really interested in your AC & PS install. I plan on doing this to my Tin top in the very near future. I have a 95 Sidekick parts car to use for the Suzuki upgrades. Looking forward to more updates.
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There are only 2  types of Samurai's: Those we need and those we want!
9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Soft top, 29's on 15x7's
2/15 Red Ryder-1988.5 Tin top 4.16 TC w/TT SPOA on stock springs, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME steering stabilizer, Mighty Kong II
11/13 1995 Kick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car
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