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Author Topic: Post transfer case overhaul thoughts  (Read 442 times)

Bad Goat

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Post transfer case overhaul thoughts
« on: September 05, 2016, 06:46:30 AM »

I had emailed Myron making sure it was ok to quote him in a post at Zuwaharrie.  He asked to post over here as well.

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Bad Goat

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Re: Post transfer case overhaul thoughts
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2016, 06:46:48 AM »

I thought I would share some information I had to find while overhauling my transfer case, maybe it will save someone else time. Overall it was a lot easier than I thought it would be, I'm not mechanic by any means.

Parts Needed:
Short answer you will probably want at least the following.

The 5 ball bearings
2 piece paper gaskets set
3 output seals
o-ring for counter shaft
Shifter sheet

Long answer:

I recommend buying the parts through Zuks off road. Myron sells three kits from other venders at the same cost they sell them. Myron offers a lot great customer/tech support , and I took advantage of that multiple times on this project. He even sent me a gear for the cost of shipping because mine had a chip out of one the teeth.

I bought the petroworks kit (most parts) from Myron, but if I did it again buy a smaller kit Myron sells from Trail-Gear. The Trail-Gear kit uses Koyo bearings (OEM w/ great reputation) and the Petroworks one uses another brand of Japanese bearings. I didn't need the additional needle bearings in the larger kit.

Myron quote "For never opened cases we see the need for ball bearings. When Samurai T-cases get water in them OR they are run low on fluid the needles and main shafts get messed up. I see somewhere around 97 out of a 100 not require needles just ball bearings. So with out investigating prior to ordering I do like the kits with 3 seals, two gaskets and the 5 main ball bearings "

Unless you have replaced the shifter sheet some point you'll need that. Zuks off road has a brass one :), and Petrowokrs has polyurethane one.


An updated OEM front output shaft is available, it came standard on the 94+  samurais.   I did not use this, mine had no wear marks. This might be desirable for people w/ bigger tires, motor, ect.
.
None of the kits come with seals for the speedometer bullet. This something can be replaced without removing the transfer case later if needed. An updated speedometer bullet with two o-rings for improved sealing is available. There is a seal inside bullet.


Miscellaneous info.

You can't split the case with speedometer bullet installed, you will break your case.

Rear seal does not sit flush
Myron quote:
"The rear seal is a tricky seal because most people don't know it resets down in the hole deep down in the hole....the seal goes to the back edge. It should always be put into a half case so you can see how straight it is in comparison to the back edge"

Thrust measurements:
The best method would be the way the FSM says, but it requires special tools. Chance are if you want to do it this way you'll have to have machine shop do the measurements for you.   I had a millwright friend double check my measurements, i used the method below.  I was .001 one different than his measurements.

How I did it, I forgot where I found this method
Put only the input and output assembly(no counter shaft gaskets, bolts ect) in the case and have someone help squeeze the case together. Measure The gap. It should be between .008 and . 012 of inch. I ended up adding shims to both sides.

******* Its worth mentioning that Low Range Off Roads Website says "The case gap needs to be between 0.36mm/.014in and 0.45mm/.018in." After reading the FSM I think they did the math wrong. Read the manual, decide for yourself.********
« Last Edit: September 05, 2016, 06:19:29 PM by Bad Goat »
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Bad Goat

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Re: Post transfer case overhaul thoughts
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2016, 06:58:59 AM »

I guess i should mention tools:

Factory service manual.
I also referenced the trail gear set instructionshttp://www.trail-gear.com/PDF/105004-3-INS.pdf
Arbor press, although i've read about it being done with BFH and gear pullers.  I would not choose to do it this way
Three jaw pullers to remove flanges.
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