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Author Topic: Turbo  (Read 885 times)


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« on: May 30, 2017, 03:36:37 PM »

 I recently purchased a turbo set for my 1.3  with 44 mm carburetor  truck idles perfect but once I get in cruising speed it just cuts out  and dies completely  can only give it half throttle before it starts barking and then dies  and I noticed my fuel ratio meter going to zero meaning it's not getting enough fuel  any suggestions I need help


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Re: Turbo
« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2017, 11:03:04 PM »

To clarify your comment, "fuel gauge goes to zero",  indicates lean. You need to richen and that is a simple drilling procedure*. When I am test driving and see the A/F gauge display lines instead of zero, I know its lean. Here are some check items first.

Is pressure regulator fuel gauge needle at 9psi+? Look at it when engine is manually reved by turning butterfly open. If not, adjust PR rod and lock nut. Drive rod in.
This fuel setup gets me the balance needed between idle of 2psi (less is better) and approx. 9psi at WOT.
Adjusting the PR on normally aspirated CV carbs is ALL about keeping the fuel inside the carb. The carb is a gravity feed shut off system and the issues of leaking fuel must be addressed. In other words it has little to do with performance of the system. Mostly with stopping the carb from puking fuel.
Adjusting the PR on MY-Turbo can make it run better.  BOOST controlled PR works differently, try it. The only two styles of PR used in our kits are both USA made. Hey both have adjusting rods. So what are looking for as a warning I went to far? When fuel flows out of carb into Pitot tube back into the carb throat. That's to much WOT psi. Find its happy place. ZOR has a co-worker that I am teaching turbo to, named Jessie. He is starting to be real helpful as his skills are getting sharper. We discuss the running conditions and have gotten good results from a PR adjustment.

PCV must be deleted. Think Boost and you will get it. When you do, you should remember the horror of pushed out seals.

*Drilling for more fuel: lots of different options here. I am going simple, remove float bowl, remove highest piece of brass when carb is upside down. Enlarge hole going down middle. Drill only as deep as the last small holes on shank. Drill in steps by removing as little as possible of the jet brass material when enlarging. You go to far you buy another main jet holder. Reinstall make another run. If improved, repeat enlarging. That's what I call a casual tune. Others here have done a secondary adjustable something or other, that is some real cool ideas.

 I am pleased with a casual tune. Especially the performance gains that were verbally appreciated by the owner. There are some key people in this section that are going to take it to the next level. I am just gonna stick with what works. It is hard for me to be convinced on new ideas. But I also learn from my customers. Others here have done really cool carb modifications to get more out of MY-Turbo. Hopefully they chime in and share some information that benefited them.
Stay outta my tree.
And the tree next to my tree and the trees next to that! Or any tree made out of wood for that matter!
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