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Author Topic: Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301  (Read 664 times)

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Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301
« on: June 23, 2017, 09:32:11 PM »

Utsammy calling Utsammy
« Last Edit: June 24, 2017, 06:59:22 AM by zorproducts »
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UTSammy

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Re: Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2017, 04:11:26 PM »

Okay folks, I started the engine and transmission pull June 8th and its now the 23rd. If I had to make a living at this I'd starve, right?

In all fairness, most of the time in between has been spent doing everything I could do while I had excellent access to the engine and accessories. I will be discussing the details on another section of this thread. My original goal was to replace the transmission, which I did and now its bolted to the engine and ready to go back in. So we lifted the motor and tranny, tail down until it looked high enough to clear the oil pan. Then it was just a matter of lifting the tail with my hand and guiding it over the front end.

After that, it was just like a giant game of Tetris. You have a L-shaped tile that needs to fit on an upside down L-shaped hole. Arrow down, then left, then back, then a little right and before long you have the tail of the transmission in the cavity about 6 inches from the ground.  The engine is tilted up quite a bit and needs to become more level with the ground.  The way to do this is by raising the tail end of the trans while you slowly lower and roll the engine rearward with the hoist.  When you can no longer go back any further its time to look at the transmission rubber mount to see where it is in relationship to the bracket it has to sit on.

In my case it was about 3 inches past. So no matter how much jacking I did It was going to get hung up. So I grabbed a block of wood and repositioned my floor jack more toward the middle if the trans. so as to not damage the new trans. with the floor jack. As it raised and the tail got closer to the bracket, I jacked up the hoist a bit and slide the eng/trans forward a few inches enough to clear the bracket.  When it did, I jacked it up enough then rolled the hoist rearward again and she rested on the bracket. You can see by the pictures I had to wedge a short block of wood to line up the holes on the mount and bracket. When I got it in place I used a vice grip on the 2 pieces to hold it in place while I put my Allen headed bolts in (yes, these are the wrong bolts. but they will do until the right ones arrive in the mail. I snugged them down but not tight.

Then I checked the alignment of my motor mounts. They were pretty close but I had to tap one side down just a hair with a hammer to line up the holes. I did the same for the other side and snugged them down tight. I went back and did the same now on the trans mount bracket.

Next thing, MY said to take a q-tip and grease the shaft on back of trans. Also did the same on the Intermediate shaft since I was about to put it back on next.  NOTE: This time I put the t-case in neutral so I could rotate the shaft freely to get all the nut/bolts in easily. I struggled if you recall getting the top one out. MY saved me a bunch of aggravation with that little tip. Done.

While I was down underneath it was easy to replace the transmission hollow crossbar. Piece of cake. Done.

Then I moved on to the spring bolts in the exhaust donut. MY sent me replacements since I had the wrong ones. They will tighten all the way and you'll notice you will still be able to wiggle the exhaust pipe. Don't panic, this is normal. It is designed to give with all the bumps and bouncing around. That explains the springs in the bolts. Done.

It was getting late so I decided to stop there for the day. I could have reconnected the clutch cable but I remember finding a small washer that belonged to the linkage. I needed to see a diagram of how it all goes back together before tackling it. So I gathered up my tools and disconnected the chains from the engine leveler. Tomorrow I'll start reconnected the rest.

NOTE 2: Rule of thumb, use loktite on all bolts that do not get regulary removed and adjusted. For example the distributer adjustment bolt etc.
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UTSammy

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Re: Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2017, 05:52:52 PM »

So back at it this morning. Thought I would start out with probably the rest of the underneath stuff to get it out of the way. Right out of the chute I discovered a problem with my clutch cable parts. I had mentioned yesterday that I was waiting to look at a diagram of the clutch cable to see if all the little parts were there. They were not. It seems that I am missing a couple washers, a nut and the spring. All I had was the end nut (badly chewed up) the swivel and a single smaller nut on the end of the cable. I went back and looked at my original pictures and noticed it was exactly the same. I thought I might have lost some parts but I have been very careful the whole time to put all parts in little baggies then label them. Believe me, this saved me several times already. You think you'll remember and maybe some people can, but after a week my brain starts to dump unused info.

So I guess that leaves me wondering how it was able to work before I took it apart?
« Last Edit: June 27, 2017, 04:26:54 PM by UTSammy »
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UTSammy

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Re: Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2017, 04:05:34 PM »

Back at it. Thanks to Myron he cobbled together another care package of small parts. He somehow managed to find all the little clutch cable pieces so I didn't have to buy a whole new cable. It will be a couple days in the mail then I'll get back to properly reinstalling the clutch cable.

Most of what's left is now working standing up underneath the hood. I just started looking around and seeing what needed to be reconnected that was a no brainer. I thought maybe I would tackle the radiator. Since I was replacing the radiator with a brand new shiny one, I studied it to see what was different.  It came with just the basic core and no mounting arms or shroud. So I got busy disassembling the arms and shroud from my old one.  The arms were simple and bolted right on to the new one. The shroud was a little different. My old radiator had built in nuts the new one had a mounting plate. So I needed to make a run to Lowe's for nuts, bolts and washers. For about $3 I got everything I needed. I decided to keep it all metric though I could have used almost anything. Took 2 minutes to mount the shroud then ready to drop it in. it was 10 times easier since my new radiator didnt have an aux fan mounted to the front (left over from a/c). Piece of cake to drop in. The bolts were right where I left them in the frame under the hood.

Next came the lower and upper radiator hoses. The lower comes in 2 pieces. There is an aluminum pipe in between the 2 that mounts to the frame. I ended up having to buy the entire hose kit from another vendor ($118 bucks ouch!) It pays to plan ahead. If you know you're going to replace all your hoses you can get the kit on ebay for about $37 but you'll be waiting on shipping from china. The heater hoses alone are worth the money. Finding them in my little town was a nightmare. Nothing matched up. And anything close was about $22 a piece and you are cutting about a third of it away.  Even though it was expensive it was nice to have the precut, pre-moulded hoses. As a side note the lower heater hose was a bit short so I had to split the difference between where it hit on the radiator and on the metal pipe mounted to the frame.  There was no way around it. The pipe is fixed into position so something had to give. The rest of the hoses were a breeze. I replaced all 3 radiator hoses and 3 heater hoses and 2 little bypass hoses (more on the little bypass hose in another thread). You'll see in the pictures, I did the heater hoses at the heater core (firewall) before I dropped the motor back in. Took 2 minutes. With motor in, probably 2 hours.

Notice I removed the plastic cover below the radiator this time. It made it a thousand times easier to secure the lower radiator hose. It was 2 phillips screws and it popped out. Cleaned it and put it back on in a couple of minutes. Next I slipped the radiator fill bottle back into place. Mine isn't in great shape but it will do for now. Also my new radiator didn't come with an overflow hose that connects from the radiator cap to bottle. MY is sending one. The one off my old radiator was shot.

The last hoses were easy. Connected the heater hose from the drivers side heater core to the end of the water log. Connected the heater hose from the heater valve to the manifold. Connected the 2 smaller bypass hoses that go from manifold to water log. I don't have a lot of great pictures since I couldn't get my Ipad in that tight of a space. The water log sits directly under the manifold and connects directly to the water pump. It is exactly as it name indicates, its shaped like a log, and gets filled with circulating water. That takes care of the hoses (picture of new one at bottom). Called it a day.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2017, 04:27:54 PM by UTSammy »
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UTSammy

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Re: Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2017, 06:14:28 PM »

Just a few more things under the hood left to do and I will be nervously turning the key.

I reconnected the engine oil sensor light on the drivers side that MY found for me back when I was prepping to pull the engine. Then I reconnected the distributer ground to the firewall. Also, I reconnected what I thought was the distributor plug (more on that later). While back there I reconnected the reverse light switch that connects to the transmission. There are 2 switches on the trans, one is the reverse switch and one is a dummy leftover that did something else. MY told me about 5 times but I cant remember but it's not important. It now just fills a hole. My cable was supposed to have a round green connector but there are just 2 female wires that plug into the other half of the green connector on the firewall. Good thing I took pictures.

I went back into my original pictures to see how all the vacuum lines were connected.  That really helped a lot because the weber carb has a bunch of them.  I wasn't too concerned about the condition of the vac hoses since I will be upgrading to a new Harley carb and the MYside 1. Reinstalled plug wires. Reconnected round blue connector to back of alternator (Note: MY said he's never seen one that was blue. Should be green!) Reconnected the power wire to alternator which is the big thick black wire.

Next thing was to remount the radiator fan onto the water-pump pulley. This was fairly easy to get at. I needed to do this before the next step which was to tighten up the v-belt that goes around the water-pump, crank pulley and alternator by prying down on the alternator, but not too tight. Then I tightened the adjustment bolt. Reconnected big black ground on drivers side.

I then reconnected the throttle cable to the carburetor. Had to refer to the old pictures but it was pretty simple and logical.

Next I reconnected all three fuel lines. 2 go to the fuel pump and one to the Weber. I just cut off the bad ends that were torn up by the old clamps instead of replacing the fuel lines. Again, I have a new carb on its way. I'll just need to make due for now.

That pretty much covered the engine compartment stuff. I still had the clutch cable to reconnect but still waiting for parts. So that brings us to the reinstall of the shifter. MY sent me the "Thor" which is a brass replacement bushing that goes on the ball at the base of the stick with a wavy washer on top. It's very easy to figure out. You just take off the old bushing and wavy washer and replace it.  I did grease it per instructions and dropped it in. It was designed to give a better, tighter feel to the shifter. I didn't remember to get a picture of the Thor and install but I'm sure it can be found on this website somewhere.

That wraps up the reinstall as far as putting it all back together. It's time to fill the fluids.  Right off the bat I had a problem with the transmission fill. My new trans has a 24mm 6 sided head and so does the drain plug. And both of those bad boys were in tight as you can imagine. I wondered if they put them back in with an impact wrench. Since I didn't have a 24mm or 15/16"  six-sided socket (which also fit) i had to try to be gentle with the plug as not to round out the head. Wouldn't that be delightful on my new transmission? MY said to go over the top through the stick. Just make sure to put in 43 ounces max. I had an old measuring cup, popped out the shifter stick and slowly filled it up.

Oil was easy. Radiator was filled with 1/2 gallon of antifreeze and the rest water. I didn't put any in the overflow/fill bottle since I didn't have it connected with rubber hose. Refilled the brake fluid reservoir (not because I disconnected anything with brakes, only because I had a brake light on before I started the project) and reconnected the battery. It was time to turn the key.

NOTE: I connected the negative battery terminal before I dropped the engine in thanks to a tip from MY. Much easier. The negative is on the starter bolt that goes through the transmission. The positive terminal is very easy to reconnect.

And now the moment you've all been waiting for! ( Drumroll please!) Turn the key, its turning over, and over and over, NO FIRE OFF! Houston, we have a problem...
« Last Edit: June 28, 2017, 06:51:24 PM by UTSammy »
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UTSammy

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Re: Reinstalling 1.3 engine and Trans 301
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2017, 07:12:53 PM »

Next day, back at it. I send a panic text to MY saying I'm turning over okay but I'm getting nothing. Not as much as a backfire! What did I do wrong. He assures me it can only be 2 things, gas or spark. Since I'm smelling gas, we go with spark.  Like any good problem solver MY has me run down all the obvious stuff...plug wires connected? Going to the right cylinders? Getting voltage to the coil etc.  I pull one of the wires off the distributer cap and its green like a corroded battery left too long in a transistor radio. Ah hah! My smoking gun!  I clean it up good and check the rest, all good. I'm excited now to give it a try and...NOTHING!

So the next morning I make a run to O'rielly's. By now when I walk through the door they yell "NORM"! So I buy a new distributer cap, a new coil and new plug wires. Total about $35, cheap insurance I think to myself. I'm certain that this is the problem. Probably bad wires, cracked cap or low voltage to the coil.  But you guessed it, still not as much as a cap gun like pop.

MY asked if I plugged the distributer into the right plug. I thought I did, but guess what, I didn't! I was fooled by the change of wire color on the female plug at the fire wall. I was looking for a plug with one black and white wire and one brown and white wire.  I saw only one with a red and green wire. But as I traced it up toward the back of the plug, there it was, the black and white and brown and white sticking out about 1/4".  Someone had spliced red and green onto the plug.  So I quickly plugged it in and turned the key and BOOM! Big-time backfire but no spark. Called MY, he said, sounds like you need to restab the distributer. What? re-what to the what?  He described what needed to be done. When I hung up the phone I thought he was crazy. Remove the valve cover, rotate the crank...man NO WAY! But to be honest, it wasnt all that hard. It literally took me about 10 minutes to do what he asked.

So I took off the valve cover. Only 4 bolts hold it in place. I did like he said, making sure to loosen one bolt then the next then so on. Easy. Then he said locate the little notch on the crank pulley. Found it. Rotate the engine clockwise, until the notch lines up with the number 10 on the timing cover. (NOTE: NEVER EVER ROTATE THIS ENGINE COUNTERCLOCKWISE- MY said you could do some serious damage). After doing this, he said to tell him if the rocker arms on #4 were tight (no movement) and #1 were loose (small movement) and they were. He said the engine was firing on cylinder #1 in this position and that the spinner (Can't remember the right term) inside the distributer needs to point to #1 or about 11 o'clock position.   It was pointing to #3. And there it was, my smoking gun. MY said to restab it to #3. So I loosened the bolt that held the distributor in its housing, pulled the distributor up and out then rotated the spinner to about the 2 o'clock position. The #3 is on the distributor cap and the cap only fits one way so I know I had it right.  Put it back together, tightened the bolt. From my old pictures I could see some marks someone made at the bolt so I knew it ran there before I removed the distributer, so I knew I would be close on the timing. I replaced the valve cover, replaced all the plug wires and was ready to give it a try.

I turned the key and it started right up.

You would think after all that this story would have a happy ending, but you'd be wrong. I had a donut sized puddle of oil below the engine on the drivers side.

Naturally I freaked out and called MY. I told him it looked like it was coming from where the engine and trans meet on the upper bolt drivers side. Maybe I didn't tighten it down right? He said, no chance, almost certainly it was coming from the valve cover. He was right. I didn't have the cork seal on right. I redid it and tried it again. No oil leak...now a happy ending.

(side note: clutch cable parts came today. Threw it on no problem. That concludes reinstall 301).
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