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Author Topic: Battery and Alternator 101  (Read 164 times)

zorproducts

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Battery and Alternator 101
« on: October 11, 2018, 12:13:16 AM »

Just some basics to get started
Alternators need voltage to make higher voltage to charge battery after cranking. On a Suzuki up to the later models, color of wires is very consistent throughout all the models.

Black wire with White stripe or Blk/W is key on ignition and enters the alternator via the green plug on the back of the alternator . The other wire color in the green alternator plug is White wire with Red stripe or W/Rd is the low voltage signal wire for the cluster ďdead battery lightĒ
The Isolation post is the business end of an alternator. Itís where the higher voltage output is measured. All most all brick and motor stores now have alternator and battery testers available to assist you.

There is a factory disconnect between the battery and the alternator on most Suzuki models. Using a green Female single wire connector with a white male identical wire connector. The wire is white with a yellow stripe or Wh/y.

Canít take it in to have checked?

Start car and disconnect alternator from battery using the  aforementioned Wh/y wire in the green connector
If car died Battery must be fully charged before attempting again.
Get the Fluke meter, using one probe touch to the isolation post wire. VDC must read no lower than 14.1.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2018, 07:34:41 AM by zorproducts »
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zorproducts

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Re: Battery and Alternator 101
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2018, 12:17:52 AM »

I have schematics that can be emailed. The Haynes and Clymer service manuals have schematics. My favorite is autozone.com you can get good schematics there.
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shawnevans77

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Re: Battery and Alternator 101
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2018, 04:36:44 AM »

I put a different alternator that looked brand new, still had sticker on it, from a samurai that was a daily driver until I bought it. So far Iíve only tested voltage out and voltage in. The exciter was getting voltage. It was at 12.2, same as the battery... same as the output. I just had this same problem with my f350... since it only takes 3 minutes to pull the alternator I will bring the two I have in to get tested. I know my battery is good. When I charge it I can run the thing with no lights for a while

Thanks for the info.
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zorproducts

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Re: Battery and Alternator 101
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2018, 07:32:36 AM »

Did you disconnect alternator isolation post from battery by undoing the round connector with the thick white wire? If your reading the exact voltage On iso post and positive anode? I think not. If you did then the alternate is kaput.
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