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Author Topic: Leaf Spring Fitment Issues  (Read 202 times)


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Leaf Spring Fitment Issues
« on: December 22, 2018, 10:58:46 PM »

So I got some new leaf springs in the hopes that I could improve my ride, which is akin to a shopping cart with Parkinson's disease. To my chagrin, I discovered that the leaf springs currently on it are about 8" longer!



As a result, the back half of the leaf spring is nowhere near reaching the mounting point used by the old leaf springs (the front half can reach because the shackles are adjustable). What can I do about this? I would really like to ditch the old springs, because I think they are from a much heavier vehicle (which is why the Sammy rides so violently), and I don't really want to deal with the hassle of shipping 90 lbs of leaf springs back to sender. I'm pretty new at modifying things and am looking for some guidance here.


Here's the leaf springs I purchased: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki-samurai-1-5-lift-hd-front-and-rear-leaf-springs-50-150-lbs.html
« Last Edit: December 22, 2018, 11:04:18 PM by DangerDan »


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Re: Leaf Spring Fitment Issues
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2018, 11:20:42 PM »

My first guess is:
Your not going to like the answer on this one.
My second guess is:
This is such a perfect setup if someone wanted to make fun of you (this is safe zone so we don’t allow that) for being so uneducated on Samurai suspensions OR this is a trick question from a possible competitor that wants my reply to be used against me.

So consider this just an opinion of a Samurai enthusiast.

You have a YJ spring kit from a Jeep. That is usually considered the cream of the crop for leaf spring conversions onto a Samurai.
They are usually the softest and flexiest springs available. People that have had suspensions systems similar to what your attempting to put on hated them so bad that they spent money on a YJ conversion like yours.
You have what appears to be a ML YJ kit I think either from SKY or a copy of a kit.
If you do not like this YJ suspension, you have a serious issue with owning this car. Here is why

Sprung weight is frame engine people body etc. this weight has to be held up with short narrow springs. Those springs have to be made to hold a certain weight. They have to be stiff compared to a longer wider spring that has to hold up the weight. In this case the YJ springs are softer and more flexible.
Should you not find the source of the harsh ride, here are some options what to do or what to consider.
What shocks do you have? YJ springs work better with certain brands of shocks. We also use different types of YJ springs for different types of customer wheeling requirements. Shocks are important.
Tires are what? The details are important the more info the more tech support on your rough YJ  ride.
How many packs (leafs in a spring) makes a difference with factory compared to aftermarket. Old used factory YJs have weird issues like vehicle lean. However, ride quality is not compromised. The YJ is rated as a 10 in My history book of satisfied customers. Compare that to a 2 or 3 quality ride you want to use?

To use these short narrow springs you can go backwards. Remove plates from factory wings. Use original eye location for the big eye of the front spring. Remove missing link and use standard 2” shackle. This will shorten your install points on frame about 8” shorter.

Air down! Running 32 lbs of air and hitting ripple roads is unwise. We use steel rims so we can deflate the tires and let them absorb more and allow us to go faster with a stable YJ kit.

Stay outta my tree.
And the tree next to my tree and the trees next to that! Or any tree made out of wood for that matter!
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