ZORum

Advanced search  

News:

Tired of Facebook drama and haters? Join ZORum and help us reunite the community.

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: MPFI or better known as 1.6 16v "how to fix common issues"  (Read 1990 times)

zorproducts

  • "Squirrel King" aka "MY" Boss man at ZOR
  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7647
  • Located in: Camp Verde, Arizona
  • "Adapt or Die" Don't believe me? Ask a dinosaur...
    • Zorproducts
MPFI or better known as 1.6 16v "how to fix common issues"
« on: August 17, 2013, 08:00:25 AM »

Know your version? OBD1 were made from 1992 to 1995. My favorite of the 16v swaps. Has no fuel tank pressure sensor, crank sensor or second O2 sensor. Also less tall than the 96-98 OBD2 version.

I am looking for the correct OBD1 scanner to read Suzuki ecus. Until I find one I have to flash codes.

An issue I discovered to be true is that the battery must be over 11.6 volts for ecu to function. To check CEL both versions have a DTC plug (the same plug is used for timing freeze). With key OFF insert a paperclip jumper between blue wire w/yellow tracer and the black wire. Turn key on and look at CEL flashing. IF CEL is solid than you must reset the USA odometer counter by flipping the switch at the end of the red, white and blue wires with key off. Then try key on again your CEL ahould be flashing code(s).

What you want to see is Flash pause followed by two rapid flashes. That is a 12 or normal code.

Problem; engine starts but immediately dies. Restart and immediately dies. CEL ahowed it as a 12 normal system.
Every component involving spark was diagnosed good but was still changed out for troubleshooting. Then fuel pressure checked and verified. Finally replaced MAF and problem solved. Remember that not all components throw codes upon failure.
Logged
Stay outta my tree.
And the tree next to my tree and the trees next to that! Or any tree made out of wood for that matter!

zorproducts

  • "Squirrel King" aka "MY" Boss man at ZOR
  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7647
  • Located in: Camp Verde, Arizona
  • "Adapt or Die" Don't believe me? Ask a dinosaur...
    • Zorproducts
Re: MPFI or better known as 1.6 16v "how to fix common issues"
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2014, 02:10:15 AM »

Had a customer that I did a harness for. At start up had a rough idle. Called me for some pointers on freeze timing and TPS. Finally checked the injector whip and one injector had a folded pin from plugging in at an angle. Be careful when plugging in components.
Logged
Stay outta my tree.
And the tree next to my tree and the trees next to that! Or any tree made out of wood for that matter!

zorproducts

  • "Squirrel King" aka "MY" Boss man at ZOR
  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7647
  • Located in: Camp Verde, Arizona
  • "Adapt or Die" Don't believe me? Ask a dinosaur...
    • Zorproducts
Re: MPFI or better known as 1.6 16v "how to fix common issues"
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2016, 09:28:37 AM »

Question:

Hi Myron I'm trying to help my son with his 94 sidekick 1.6 16v 4 door automatic. We're having a problem it has a slight rough idle nothing too serious but when you put it in gear it drops from a 1000 rpm to 500rpm in drive and idles very rough reverse drops it all the way down to 200rpm. occasionally it will full on stall out at stop lights. I'm wondering if you might have any suggestions? Also this weekend we're planning on doing a trans service but I want to make sure I get the right fluid and filter kit what fluid do you suggest and do you happen to know which transmission is in that year or how to identify to make sure I get the right filter? Thanks in advance for all the help.


This was my answer on transmission

The way that your local auto parts store will sell you the trans service kit is by shape of pan gasket. If you trace on paper and count bolt holes you should be good.
I will explain later about your idle problem


My answer on idle problem

Assuming you don't have a code light on that means your issue is not component related so these are important items to look at.

Color of spark (must be blue) if not make sure you have clean grounds very important

Also there must be a ground wire from negative post of battery to firewall no exceptions

The front of the fuel rail has a small green drum with two hoses attached. That is your pressure regulator when they fail they leak fuel directly into your engine. To check for failure pull the small vac line off during idle. If fuel comes out of the PR or the hose is wet. The PR must immediately be replaced. It will ruin the engine. This additional fuel at at idle causes the symptoms you described. Most likely your culprit. Do not replace if no fuel comes out of vacuum line or vac hose is dry.

Air filter dirty?

Air boots ripped after MAF sensor. No air leaks? Using a small propane bottle and nozzle turn propane on but do not light it. Point nozzle around throttle body area and rubber boot areas. If idle increases replace boots gaskets or whatever is causing the leak.

Adjust valves every 15,000 miles

Use only NGK spark plugs and OHM out your spark plug wires 5-7k ohms is OK

Is IAC functioning?
A) pull small hoses off the U on the air ram horn one at a time. Do they flow water during idle or are the jammed up?
B) remove IAC located on front of plenum valve cover side. Identified by blue connector with blue/black and green/black wires. Clean out the crude in the hole with carb cleaner and air. Apply 12v to two pins does the IAC coil open and close the plunger? If not a code should have displayed but it does not when ECU thinks it is functioning.

If you or anyone else has attempted to use a timing light without applying a jumper on the DTC plug to "freeze timing" that alone would get you into trouble. A quick check of timing would show if the ECU has readjusted timing to retard position.
Logged
Stay outta my tree.
And the tree next to my tree and the trees next to that! Or any tree made out of wood for that matter!
Pages: [1]   Go Up