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Author Topic: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info  (Read 16945 times)

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So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« on: August 27, 2013, 10:17:37 PM »

I am writing a repair manual in my spare time. The purpose of this this manual is for ZORum members to read and reply to.  Please do not copy this amd repost elsewhere. Help us grow by forcing your zuk friends to join ZOR. If you found this information helpful amd you would like to contribute to the ZORum I will post appreciation links later.


Attention: Moderators,  when you see something spelled wrong, please correct it but don't remove it.

Got a question related to the subject, ask away. Need tech on something else? Get in contact with me elsewhere.

NOTE: there is no mention of premium gasoline or propane turbo charging in this article as it was written before we perfected turbo. Turbo Beats 1.6 16v



I wanted to start with some basic information that should prove useful around a campfire. Suzuki 4 cylinder engines are made to high rev all day long. They are extremely durable when remanufactured correctly and perfect for most off road endeavors. On the road, the 1.3 will bring the bad suck.

Thousands of you have heard me say the Suzuki Samurai is a crappy car. It is a wonderful off road goat. Money fixes everything but there should be a plan on how your money is going to fix everything. A plan has to formulated from the available options. I will not be going to cover every option. It will take less space to tell you no v6s, diesel, volvo transmissions will be discussed. This class is Suzuki purist 101 and it begins now....
 
« Last Edit: August 12, 2018, 12:52:36 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2013, 10:33:35 PM »

Suzuki purist means to me to respect the power to weight ratio the Samurai is famous for. This online modual will offer experienced advice from myself and other fabricators. Whether you are looking for direction on upgrading the power plant or just information on what it takes. read on and enjoy.




The Suzuki Samurai 1.3 is a 1324cc engine Or a 1288cc. The cc displacement varied between carbed or efi pistons as carb are 8:5 and efi are 9:5. It has 8 valves. A common upgrade is enlarging the exhaust valve from the 1.3 to the 1.6 on 1.3 heads. There are engine companies that swear by this mod and others that say they have seen no benefit below 4K rpm on dyno testing.  The "stock" carb as you will hear it referred to is a Hitachi manufactured 2 barrel, water choked unit using a Lamda type smog system.
EFI (electronic fuel injection) uses a Mitshubishi TBI (throttle body injection). Just think of the tbi as a glorified carb that has a brain. Carbed models were sold in 1990 as well as efi but 1991-95 were all efi in the USA. These engines have been promoted since inception as 67 hp engines. I call those book numbers. We have dyno tested a number of different type 4x4 vehicles of Suzuki/Toyota orgin. Big tires rip into those hp numbers depleting them by more than 35%. So if you want to go fast in a Samurai invest in small tires.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2018, 12:58:06 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2013, 10:53:48 PM »

There is a better 1.3 that has DOHC and 16 valves. It boasts 100hp at 10,000 rpm. It is an awesome little engine found in GTI Swifts. Not so good if you need your firewall and heater core. It has a horizontal distributor that works well for a transverse, not so much as old missionary style. This engine may possibly be the source of the "interference" Vs "non interference" debated and misprints. I believe this 16v to be a non interrerence like all 1.3s.

Next up was the bastard year 1989-1990 efi TBI 1.6 8valve. A very popular choice for doing an engine and efi upgrade at the same time. The dumbest of the smart ECUs, the bastard uses a regular coil (non coil pack) and distributor. It has a single wire O2 sensor.  No VSS (vehicle speed sensor) or ignitor is required. Displacement is increased to 1599
Using longer rods and bigger pistons. In engine terms this usually means slower revving but also MORE Torque. And here in lies the dilemma, a well built HP 1.3 can go just as fast, if not faster than a stock 1.6


« Last Edit: August 27, 2013, 11:38:14 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2013, 11:00:19 PM »

A statement like that should raise questions, so let me state from my experience. I prefer Torque over top speed. I want to feel like I am moving. I don't want to feel that rapid drop in speed because the road has a slight uphill grade. At the time I am writing this there are some great performance mods for the 1.3 such as
Turbo
Headers
Cam
High compression pistons
Valve springs (double to prevent valve float)
Larger valves.

The 1.6 8valve has similar upgrades
Turbo with H beam rods
Header
Cam
Valve Springs
Thus book numbers have been obtained reaching 100 hp on the little 1.3 engine. A Samurai with that engine is still going to SLOW way down when going up hill.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2019, 08:23:59 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2013, 11:41:26 PM »

A stock 1.6 8valve will not slow down as fast with all other things being equal.

Now add the 1.6 16v version 8 throw crankshaft and you can get it to spin faster depending on which transmission you choose.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2018, 09:37:44 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2013, 10:28:46 PM »

2nd generation 1.6 8 v EFI TBI was available on Suzuki built cars from 91-95. Basically the same engine. Additions were non vac operated distributor. A switch over to the hotter coilpack/ignitor set up. Improved readings from the multi wire O2 sensor with preheat. That is a out it except the smarter computer needs a Vehicle Speed Sensor pulse. VSS is amazing when you consider that years before EFI Suzuki put the slots and holes into the palstic speedo for the VSS metal reed switch. Without this prethinking our VSS required conversions would be more difficult.

Do you need VSS? The answer is yes if you don't want the engine to throw a code and go to default mode, "limp home" mode. If you will not be using a factory speedo you still must have a vss signal. Building a stand alone VSS is simple. Dogonmutt has a very good thread on it here----

http://www.zukikrawlers.com is dead this link is dead trying to find the original info

Which brings us to MY favorite engine. The OBD1 1.6 16V made from 1992-95. The early years may or may not have an air temp sensor in the airfilter box or an EGR temp/check sensor. Still using the coilpack and ignitor for spark, the 16 V introduces the Mass Air Flow sensor. If your 16 valve starts but dies right away, check the MAF. It is that three wire screened in sensor between the airbox and air ram.

Finally we have the OBD2 1996-98 1.6 16v.  ( there also is a 1.8 and 2.0 but we are not including them in this modual.) New additions are second O2 sensor for behind Catylitic Converter to check flow. A crank positioning sensor located in the front of the oil pan lip. The ignitor and coil pack have now been integrated into the distributor. An advanced charcoal cannister system was incorporated with a few more vac switches. I am not a big fan of this engine because it is bulkier to squeeze into a Samurai frame, but we manage. So these will be the engines we will choose from and swap in.


Before we choose an engine we have to make decisions first. Some are simple decisions like you have no 1.6 exhaust manifold so you have to get a header. Some are more difficult to make so be informed before you start.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2019, 12:04:17 AM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2013, 10:30:28 PM »

Transmission options/ Pros and Cons

The SMALL transmission options

A) Small Samurai 5 speed. "Outtie"
Tall fifth gear 1986-88.5 manual trans. Installing a 1.6 on this trans will work. You will have the hp to hold fifth unless your tires are to big and you have no other gear reduction (t-case &/or axles). Having a smaller bell housing will reguire an engine adapter. Three or 4 vendors make them. I prefer only Petroworks.

Also highly recommended is a high quality clutch. An average clutch including the above average centerforce brand will need replacing sooner with an engine that can slip friction plate clutches. We sell the only clutch I would recommend for 1.3 and 1.6 engines. We will not sell inferior clutches.
Outtie refers to the fill and drain plugs. If you use a socket to remove these plugs, the trans is an outtie.

B) Small Samurai 5 speed. "Innie"
Shallower fifth gear 1985.5+ -1995 and on fuel injected models, the larger 10mm x 1.25 shift bolt. The unbreakable shift bolt conversion is ez to do on the outtie shift towers and shift ball widening. The innie still requires engine to trans adapter plate and class two clutch. The shallower fifth gear is more noticeable with a 1.3 than a 1.6 engine. If you use the square end of a 3/8" extension, the transmission is an "innie".

The BIG transmission options

C) Sidekick/Tracker 2 wd 5 speed.
Bolts to all the 1.6 engines with only the factory spacer thin plate. Nothing other than a normal clutch required. The larger and 16lb heavier flywheel introduces even more torque on take off. It takes awhile to get it spinning compared to the light weight small Samurai 5 spd. This trans usually reguires no modification to the sides of the tunnel but the stick opening must be modified. It comes out between the old shift stick hole and the t-case.

« Last Edit: October 18, 2015, 10:42:55 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2013, 12:15:49 AM »

The big 5 speed 2 wheel drive needs the Samurai cross member modified to accept the sideways trans mount. ZOR does have a product we hand make but soon will be machine made called a shoe (I call it a FMP). This makes an easier job of notching the cross member and welding it in.

 The intermediate shaft must be dramtically shortened utilizing the correct slip yoke for the big transmission added to the stunny shaft. Typically the length of the collar between the two u-joint yokes that are butted together measure .900" these shafts must be aligned (phased/clocked) precisely they can be. ZOR makes stubbys $95 labor plus core parts and new u-joints.
I never let an opportunity go by where I can show someone how I don't have to use the gas to shift and clutch with this trans. It is very very hard to stall.


Note: Not all 2 wheel drive Suzuki build cars are 2wd transmissions. Beware of the fake t-case.


D) Tracker 3 speed automatic 2 wheel drive w/OD (TCC Torque Convertor Lock) model TH-180/TH-180C
All Trackers got the French Built GMC trans. Again the bell housing is a direct 1.6 match. The Samurai tunnel must be heavily modified and I shorten the shift handle on all my conversions (that modual is here http://www.zuksoffroad.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0   Another thing I do but it is not a product is the lunch box. This is a metal box we drop down into the top of the Samurai tunnel. It can be seen in the link mentioned in this paragraph.

The lunch box can't be seen in the picture because of the cover. Just notice how low the shifter plastic covering is.



E) Tracker 3 speed automatic w/married t-case 4x4
Same GMC made by the french but on this baby you have two choices. Go with converting the t-case to a hi-lo box and adapting a Samurai t-case behind it (Google search "kicker3" and "ott") If you are building a dual cased buggy. Or by removing the married t-case all together and using the TrailTough auto kit this trans works thanks to Brent's innovative press in bushing.

F) Sidekick/Tracker 5 speed w/married T-case 4 x 4 manual transmission. Currently your options are limted to converting to a hi-lo box. ZOR is working on the "Bauer" adapter which will allow removal of the married t-case and still maintaining the Samurai crossmember's original shape. The Bauer family handed over his protoype to me to refine it, market it and most importantly honor him by naming it so. More to come on this as it becomes a reality.

To say it would be the best for you to purchase a running donor car for your conversion would be a fact. Buying an engine here and a harness there. Add a little Powersteering from here and AC from there is a disasterous way to start. For all the options listed above, there are donors available. There are so many of these vehicles they will continue to provide the Samurai enthusiast a pure powerplant.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_Escudo
« Last Edit: August 30, 2013, 10:41:16 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2013, 09:57:05 PM »

G) RingR adapter. Bolts to the Zuk engine and introduces Toyota tramsmissions and t-case(s) options. I included the RingR in the transmission options but will not be reviewing it in this class.


Power Steering & AC options

I am not a big fan of sidekick power steering. The box has a shallow pitman that works ok with OTT and SPOA reasonably well and even with arched SPUA suspensions. A dropped pitman arm is available but it is not mandatory like on a manual steering rig. It is no doubt the most prolific PS used because it is on so many donor cars. I find that what I call big tires (32" up) cause the pump to fade when the wheels are in the shyt. But lets say for fun you are going to do it along with your 1.6 conversion. OK now you have to ask the AC question and follow these guide lines to predesign your build or not delay someone else's swap.


Will I be doing AC along with my PS?
Answer: Yes
Guideline: stick with a donor car that has PS and AC. The brackets are different (and much rarer) to mount the AC and PS units. The PS pump itself is the same but the AC compressor feet (where the pivot bolts go through on the bottom tabs) are far different than when you have just an AC or just a PS donor. So if your donor has AC and PS and your not going to use both, sell them and get exactly what you need.

Doing PS has evolved for ZOR to where we find the job to go the smoothest when using the SKY manufacturing flat kick plate that mounts through the Samurai frame and has 3 reversed hardened bolts for the kickbox. The ZOR motorboat kit pushes  the engine over enough that the SKY plate doesn't have to be recessed into the frame. With some tube heating and twisting the PS pump fittings clear the box and steering linkage. In another class the steering linkage will be discussed.

I am not saying you can't reinvent the wheel or do electric power steering pump. Money fixes everything.

Is the answer to the AC question NO? Well in that case more PS options come into play. You could do Astro Van forward steer pitman arm, Yota IFS on out side of frame or even a Nissan set up.

Keeping it cool.

The oem Sidekick/Tracker radiator holds approximately 40% coolant than the small Samurai radiator. The best radiators now are 1 or 2 core all aluminum.  If you are doing PS you can safely assume the driver side radiator bracket going to the frame will have to be modified by spinning it 180. You will have to remove and relocate the overflow bottle bracket. Drill out the two spot welds and pry off. If you bend it, carefully bend back into correct shape. Utilizing the motor boat kit I have some tricks to move the radiator over and down.

« Last Edit: April 22, 2016, 05:16:09 AM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2013, 08:25:05 PM »

Moving the radiator to passenger side and down.

This is simply a matter of redrilling or sloting the aluminum wings on the 1 core radiator. To gain room moving the radiator to the passenger side I cut the passenger side radiator arm support about half the distance from the frame and paralell with the frame. I then narrow that piece removed by ering the cut edge. What I have is basically a channel with 2 nuts welded on it. On the frame I have two thin sides. I place the channel inside the two thin sides and reweld at the same height as before. The droppping of the radiator height is modded as needed on the two support arms and the wings.

The driver side arm frame bracket has been or will be cut off IF any steering box changes have occurrd as in PS box install.  Retain that piece, you may choose to weld it on the front tube as a base for the rotated driver side radiator arm.


Class
Dismissed.

To be continued......
« Last Edit: September 07, 2013, 08:29:17 PM by zorproducts »
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2013, 03:12:50 PM »

How about some pictures? I'm not visualizing this radiator relocation, and am going to be going through with it soon.
Please delete this post after you read it MY. Not intending to clutter your threads...
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zorproducts

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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2013, 08:15:29 PM »

No, that's OK, your question was perfect timing.  I have to dig them out or take new ones.
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2013, 08:16:56 PM »

Don't hold your breath for pictures. I fall behind everyday on what I wam supposed to do.
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #13 on: May 04, 2014, 04:57:53 PM »

When will school be back in ?

I dont want to be tardy   :-/spank
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Re: So you want your Samurai to go faster? 1.6 engine swap info
« Reply #14 on: May 04, 2014, 10:27:04 PM »

Crap. I am very late on projects in the auto department. I am not a fan of excuses, so I have nothing to show on Radiator relocation at the moment. Suffice to say planting the engine is first. Locating the radiator to ft the fan location is something that has to be done or not depending on whose engine kit you use. I am into low engines and far to passenger side. Other vendors are not.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2015, 10:44:46 PM by zorproducts »
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