ZuksOffRoad Forum

Alright, so I appear to have a slight positive camber and I'm curious whether or not it's normal. OME springs with the 1.5" lift and running 215/75/15 tires. I know there isn't a camber adjustment, however could it be cause by worn out parts in the knuckles?

Couple of things so everyone knows my instructions and advice

I do not use the term true N that is another company's product term. What I say to anyone towing, with what they think is true N. We have to talk.

If the rear drive shaft is in place and the rear wheels are rotating. The main shaft of the T-case is rotating. The hi and low gear are being held in place while the main shaft rotates inside of them at incredibly high speeds. On the main shaft is a locking collar that is able to move forward and backward connecting onto teeth on each side of the hi and low gear. A fork holds the collar in place.

What is true N? Everything has the potential of jumping into gear and causing extensive damage. I have mentioned before that twin sticks can be bound together making it more difficult to jump into gear. I am making the point it's true. Suzuki T-cases do jump into gear and cause damage. Following the how to tow manual or not. The manual is for a stock Suzuki and we tend to modify them. Modifications don't make it more likely that the T-case will jump into gear when being flat towed. It's the nature of the design.

Two camps of Suzuki/flat tow people.
Those that have never had an issue and those that have had it jump into gear. If you do not want any damage remove the rear driveshaft. If you can't then get a rear drive shaft disconnect. I am a trail tough dealer and I can get that for you. I have installed many. It is not maintenance free.  It won't jump into gear because nothings rotating in the t-case. Now for the conceptual benefit of front digs using a rear drive shaft disconnect. The manufacturer will advise against that if you ask. You can also ask them if you have the true N product they sell, if it jumps into gear will they warranty? They are telling the truth no they won't and they recommend the rear driveshaft disconnect.

Couple of things
When you take off towing  someone should put eyeballs on the front driveshaft it shouldn't turn. If it is there are reasons and they need to be addressed
The T-case is in 4 wd.
One or both of the locking hub(s) is not disengaging from the wheel hub.
You have drive flanges and front is locked. 
The front drive shaft should not turn.
You can't hurt your car towing if the rear drive shaft is out. Nothing can damage the engine trans or t-case because they are not spinning with the wheels.

The samurai T-case isn't designed to take all the load on the front axle.
Where the main shaft is bolted to the rear tires. The front has got a floating collar to grab the front output gear. 90%  of the samurai came with the shallow teeth output. Lots of T-cases get worn parts and kicking out of 4wd is common problem that can be fixed. New thicker gear put in during the rebuild.
Will the thicker gear take all the weight and power on a floating collar? Not for long.
The best T-cases for front digs are side gear to gear driven. It's ok to break down when you're wheeling. It's better to go home after wheeling hard with nothing broken. Unfortunately, ya gotta break stuff to see what needs your attention.

I flat tow mine a lot in the summer. I installed MY-Twin stick so the t-case would have a true neutral (the stock setup says neutral, but it is not a true neutral) and also gives you 2-low. Even with that, I would disconnect the driveshaft to be 100% safe. After getting tired of crawling under the rig before and after towing, I installed the Trail Tough disconnect and let me tell you, it's worth every penny. Not to mention the ability to do front digs if needed.

Welcome back. Sorry about your health issues but very glad to hear you are doing better.

So I'd like to start by apologizing. A lot of you all have been great to me over the years. Over the last few years In PA I've become disconnected from the community. We've embarked on our return to Arkansas and hopefully return to events and such. Along the way I've ran into some hurdles.
This next part is tough. I'd like to start by reaffirming that God is good. And things tend to work out.
About a year ago I thought I was developing one pneumonia. Turns out it was sudden onset acute heart failure. I was down to an 11% ejection fraction. My heart only moved 11% of its volume with every pump at 140 BPM. It came on over the course of about 10 days. My heart was failing and full of iron. Long story short. Multiple cardiologist sent me  home. The Cleveland Clinic sent me home with hospice orders last April. Dad passed around the same time. I'm on 11 prescriptions after never taking any. I'm improving by the day. I have more tests coming up. But I'm optimistic. I was told to get my affairs in order. And to not worry about the new shop build.
Today it's nearly done. And I'm back in the shop. 
I miss you all. But I'll be back.

Two questions....
1 Is there any new ones avail.  I notice there are several dist assemblies for sale on Ebay but none say that they have the ignition module inside.

2 Does the OEM module do any electronic advance? 

Thanks,

Jim, Bigfootford.

My 87 sammy has developed a death wobble at around 35 to 40 mph. She is pretty much stock height. When making right hand turn i hear knock when making the turn. I suspet its the axel baring, but would this cause the death wobble? Im thinking about purchasing the axle baring kit and wondering if this will solve my issues any thoughts will be appreciated
Thanks

Wanting a tan soft top for my 86 Samurai. Anybody ordered from them in the states? This is the only one I could find. MF Brown color soft top with tinted windows for Suzuki Santana Samurai 4WD + Brown vinyl spare tire cover
Ref: BASST-760

Welcome! If you need any help post it and we'll gladly help you get your rig back up and running!

Welcome!