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Got Questions? / Axle shim recommendations
Last post by scottbrummett - Jan 08, 2023, 12:45 PM
I have approx 8 inch lift on an 88 Samurai,SPOA and OME springs. 
I just purchased new 31x10.50 15 Interco Super Swampers.
I'm looking for pinion angle shim recommendations to reduce wear on the drive shaft during road use.
What degree and manufacturer?  Recommendations please.
Worthy Cause / Re: Raffle Drawing List
Last post by zuksadmin - Nov 19, 2022, 08:31 PM
600 total spots on raffle.  For simplicity and fairness I have come up with a plan.

Five players
Phloop 50 one spot
StilZukin 50 one spot
Mike Hamilton 100 two spots
Dustin B 100 two spots
Steve B 300 six spots

12 spots on a raffle wheel
1st spin is for $200 gift certificate
2nd spin is for $300 gift certificate
3rd spin is for $500 gift certificate

First winning spot removed
Second winning spot removed
Third winning spot end of game
If name still on board for 2nd and 3rd spin you could win multiple times.
Worthy Cause / Re: Raffle Drawing List
Last post by zuksadmin - Nov 19, 2022, 08:17 PM
Ok video is done. the link is in this category.  Both Samurais ran,  it was horribly expensive but worth it.  That went South! No doubt due to the many obstacles with distractions, thrown at all of us.

I will be having the raffle soon and sending the certificates immediately after the raffle.

I have included a picture of the class with ZOR SUMO t-shirts. 


Worthy Cause / Final YouTube Video
Last post by zuksadmin - Nov 18, 2022, 05:46 AM
Worthy Cause / Re: Paradise Valley High Schoo...
Last post by Still Zukin - Sep 08, 2022, 02:15 AM
Wow what a mess. Hope it works out.
Got Questions? / Re: T-Case Gears
Last post by zuksadmin - Sep 07, 2022, 07:22 PM
Call me 714 488-2272

Worthy Cause / Re: Raffle Drawing List
Last post by zuksadmin - Sep 07, 2022, 07:07 PM
This went the way of the economy. I wanted the video done before we drew for winners. I will do something about drawing asap. The people listed have a damn good chance of winning lol
Worthy Cause / Re: Paradise Valley High Schoo...
Last post by zuksadmin - Sep 07, 2022, 07:04 PM
Just an update here

The cars were finished. The video company wasn't paid by FORD like their rep said so the teacher of the class paid the company and they bailed on us big time. I was given about 30 hours of video and audio in Mac format to edit myself.

Not a happy camper. I have hired a company to shoot and edit for the ZuksOffRoad YouTube channel. They are doing what they can to get through the 60 videos scheduled to be done by years end.   They do not want to take on the high school project. Eventually the video will be done and put on our channel.
New Members / Re: The Zorum is still around!
Last post by 1badmotorfinger - Sep 04, 2022, 01:49 PM
Man, I've also been away far too long and thought ZORUM was gone for good. Shame about all of the lost content but we can rebuild.
Tunning tips from MY

Ok simple stuff. I have provided this specific tech to thousands of people. It works.

Your job is to match the fuel flow to your engine demand.

This is done by drilling the main jet of the Harley carb. The reason why the jet drop set is required is each drill adds a drop. Not much so we make it perfect by testing.

Because this system atomizes the fuel so well these engines run best at height timing with full vacuum port. There are aftermarket mods available for distributor timing. We can assist you with those. Only if you are not 100% satisfied with the kits and IF you have good compression.

So you can set timing with our way before you fix top end. It's quite normal to get the first report similar to yours: really snappy hood bottom end but fades away at wot.

Solution: add more fuel.

First timing.
Use one of the two side by side ports that are horizontal to the car. Located between the carb and the water housing cap for the t-stat. Pointing at the fender. Put a vac line directly to the distributor dash pot. Before you connect it to the intake. Apply vacuum and see if it holds? If not no worries! Suzuki distributors have weights that override static timing.

Note: the only other vac line is from charcoal can to vertical port next to PCV valve.
Note: Don't use vacuum caps to close off ports. Use 1 hose to connect two ports. If you have an odd or a bigger size use 2" of rubber hose  and bolt/screw in the end will last a long time. Vac caps are not required or used.

The carb is stock with a 48 idle, a fixed needle, a 220 main jet.

Think of three circuits
Idling issue is the idle jet.

Midrange is the needle that goes up and down with the slide.

Wide open throttle is the main jet.

Pick you the 40 drill and put it in a hand held drill tool.

Remove the carb by leaving on the fuel line, throttle cable, choke cable.

Remove the clamping rods that holders the T plate farthest from the engine.

Pull T plate and carb away from engine.

Put rag on top of carb.

Rotate upside down and catch all the fuel in the rag.

Remove the four Philips screws in the corners of the float bowl.

Lift bowl and grab the L rod. It's loose and held into place by the float bowl. The rod goes thru the little rubber bellows on the side of the float bowl.
Secure for reinstalling.

The highest piece of brass is the main jet. It has a slot in it to change. Right below the circular head of the main jet is a 8mm or 5/16" open end wrench hex. Hold the emulsifier tube with a wrench and unscrew main jet. Hold head in pliers NOT THE THREADS. Run drill thru. Blow out chips with air or carb cleaner.


Crank to fill fuel bowl.

Rpms are not that important but timing is

It needs to be set to 18-20 dbtdc at warm idle. This is where they run the best

If your distributor dash pot doesn't leak vacuum connect to the port mentioned. Leave connected and time.

Of your dash pot leaks do not connect to intake manifold. Just time to same 18-20 at warm idle

Report back about the improvement. It might not be at its highest potential yet. When you are happy with wot read below.

The test of A/F in a cv carb.

Flat road no uphill or downhill for miles. No headwind or tailwind.

Get going as fast as you can go in highest gear it will max out and hold there.

Back your skinny pedal up one inch and hold. Pay attention to tach-speedo-wind noise-engine reving-

This may take 1/4 mile but it will do one of two things.

Go faster
Slow down.

If you go faster when you back gas pedal you are lean. Drill again.

When you slow down and then apply that last inch and it speeds up -that's it.