Zuk Specs and Frankenstein engines, what fits what..(Reposting from nagtrainer)

Started by bad goat, Feb 25, 2022, 05:12 AM

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bad goat

Below is an old post i saved by nagtrainer from the old forum pre-crash.   I had saved it, and found myself referring to it today.  Hopefully copy and paste doesn't get to weird.

Lets begin this with some basic Specs for our beloved Zuk engine. I pulled
these specs from TopLine, Elgin, Ferrea, and Teamswifts web site. Elgin
seems to be the most friendly when it comes to getting specs. Here is their
link.http://catalog.elginind.com/app/Engine.asp?mfg=SUZUKI
1.3 G13BA 1298cc SOHC 8V
Bore x Stroke 74mm x 75.5mm
Compression Ratio 9.5:1
Cylinder Block Deck Height 186.8mm
Deck Clearance 0.2mm (above)
Cylinder Head Volume 32.2cc
Head Gasket Thickness (compressed) 1.2mm
Minimum Combustion Chamber Volume 38.2cc
Intake Valve O.D. 36mm
Exhaust Valve O.D. 30mm
Connecting Rod Length (between centers) 120mm
Piston Comp Height 28.90mm
Piston Clearance & Position (from Crown) 0.200 @ 45.80
1.3 G13A 1324cc SOHC 8V
Bore x Stroke 74mm x 77mm
Compression Ratio 8.9:1
Cylinder Block Deck Height 186.8mm
Cylinder Head Volume 32.2cc
Head Gasket Thickness (compressed) 1.2mm
Intake Valve O.D. 36mm
Exhaust Valve O.D. 30mm
1.3 G13B 1298cc DOHC 16V
Bore x Stroke 74mm x 75.5mm
Compression Ratio 10.1:1 (11.1:1 in the import cultus gti)
Cylinder Block Deck Height 186.8mm
Cylinder Head Volume 50.46cc measured mine

Head Gasket Thickness (compressed) 1.2mm
Intake Valve O.D. 29.1mm X 5.45 X 105.35 1R
Exhaust Valve O.D. 24.9mm X 5.47 X 104.65
1.3 G13BB SOHC 16V
Bore and Stroke 74mm X 75.5MM
Compression ratio 9.5:1
Deck Hieght 186.8mm
Cylinder head volume 46.67cc measured mine
Head gasket thickness Compressed 1.2mm +/- .02mm
Intake Valve O.D. 29.1mm x 5.47mm X 92.2mm
Exhaust Valve 24.9mm X 5.445mm X 79.93mm
1.6 G16A 1590cc SOHC 8V
Bore x Stroke 75mm x 90mm
Compression Ratio 8.9:1
Cylinder Block Deck Height 213.8mm
Deck Clearance 0.9mm (below)
Cylinder Head Volume 32.2cc
Head Gasket Thickness (compressed) 1.2mm
Minimum Combustion Chamber Volume 50.6cc
Intake Valve O.D. 36.6mm
Exhaust Valve O.D. 32.5mm
Connecting Rod Length (between centers) 139.6mm
Piston Comp Height 28.10mm
Piston Clearance & Position (from Crown) 0.200 @ 48.00
1.6 G16B 1590cc SOHC 16V
Bore x Stroke 75mm x 90mm
Compression Ratio 9.5:1
Cylinder Block Deck Height 213.8mm
Deck Clearance 0.9mm (below)
Cylinder Head Volume 46.67cc Same basic head as a G13BB
Head Gasket Thickness (compressed) 1.2mm
Minimum Combustion Chamber Volume 46.8cc
Intake Valve O.D. 29.2mm X 5.47mm X 92.2mm
Exhaust Valve O.D. 25.0mm X 5.445mm X 79.93mm
Connecting Rod Length (between centers) 139.6mm
Piston Comp Height 28.55mm
Piston Clearance & Position (from Crown) 0.300 @ 53.00
This is just the start of the quest to have the most fact filled data sheet for
Zuks. If anyone has a question feel free to ask. I have Alldata, and Zuk FSM as
reference. I also have a multitude of catalogs for automotive machining to
search for the answer through.
Remember this is for Zuks, and Zuk Hybrid engines only. If you have a
turbo question I must refer you to Jarred and the turbo section for the answer.

bad goat

Now lets start at the bottom and work our way to the top of the engine. Honda
engines and Zuk engines are real similar, except Zuks were first, and Honda
runs backwards. Chamfer the oil holes the other way and it will work well in a
Zuk.
I copied this from TeamSwift
G13/16 - 84mm bore spacings
deck height (block height)--------------
Suzuki G16 = 213.8mm
Head gasket height=1.2mm
Deck Clearane below= 0.9mm
Suzuki G13 = 187mm
Honda D16 = 212mm
Daihatsu HD = 210mm
Daihatsu HC = 200mm
Daihatsu HD-E = 212mm
Main journal diameters---------------
G16a/b = 52mm
rod BE bore 1.851 inches / 47.0154 mm
Daihatsu HD-E = 50mm
Honda d16 = 55mm
Crankpin diameters-------------------
Suzuki G16a/b = 44mm
Daihatsu sohc 16v = 45mm
HOnda D16 = 45mm
The big difference, machining wise, is the thrust bearing placement. other wise
it fits right in including the oil pump. The only other issue is the harmonic
balancer is unique to the Honda, and the flywheel bolt are substantially larger
and stronger than a Zuk but a Honda Fly will fit in a Zuk bell housing as well
as the clutch pressure plate.
So basically with little machining the D15 crank will fit in the G13 block, and
same for the D16 crank in the G16 block. Now I've never seen a 1.6 crank let
go, and the only reason I can see someone wanting one is if they intend to use
the extra rotating weight for more applied torque. 27Lbs Vs 20Lbs for the Zuk.
The reason to go with the D15 crank would be the 84mm stroke vs the 77 or
75 mm in the Zuk and it's forged. Only the G13B/K DOHC is Forged.
When it comes to connecting rods, there is all sorts of options. From titanium
Crower rods, Cromo H beams, Pauter Hammer forged, to stock 4Age, Nissan
E15's and then the basic Stock Zuk rods.
connecting rods and the engines they come out of. What I've seen the Yota
4Age rods are probably the best for junkyard super beast rods and to get them
re bushed for zuk pin is not to expensive. the local shop here does them for 20
dollars a rod +bronze bushings.
Mfg. Engine c-c in/mm BE Dia in/mm BE width in/mm SE
Dia in/mm SE width in/mm
Suzuki G1.3a/b 4.7200/119.89 1.772/45.01 0.8610/21.87
0.7480/19.00 0.8610/21.87
Toyota 4Age 4.8000/121.92 1.7721/45.01 0.8560/21.74
0.7875/20.00 0.8560/21.74
Suzuki G16a/b 5.4950/139.57 1.8509/47.01 0.8610/21.87
0.7480/19.00 0.8610/21.87
Nissan E15t 5.2360/132.99 1.8900/48.01 0.9520/24.18
0.7480/19.00 0.9520/24.18
Now remember these are stock rods, and a little machining will be necessary
to fit them but the cost is less than buying after market ones and depending
on application. I am referring to the Nissan and Yota rods but for junkyard
parts the strength they have is better. The yota's are almost a direct drop in.
Here is a good side by side comparison for you.
Nissan E15 comparison
You can see some beefiness and notice the bronze bushing? Zuk rods don't
actually have those..
After market depends on your budget.
You can get a set of Billet off E-bag, or from a dealer like Spoon, or SRD
(Suzuki Racing Development). They are a good rods but still Chicom. E-Bay
can run $275 delivered, I picked up a set from the supplier for SRD for
$245.00. SRD wants 700 I think, and Spoon is around 500, but like I said they
come from the same supplier in China.
If you want American Made Billet well Brian Crower has the 4Age Rods which
fit nicely on a 1.3. Part Number BC6354 or BC6355 for 449. on sale normally
516.
And Pauter Rods have the actual Zuk rods in an I beam or Cross beam for
$984.00 I have the part number if you want them... LOL.. Both are made right
in San Diego County. Also if you really want to go mega exotic, well then
Brian's uncle Bruce Crower sells a set of Titanium rods for 2600 to 3800
dollars for the set. But that to me is unimaginable for a Samurai or a Kick..
Maybe for a Honda Killing Geo Metro.. And according to Bruce you can get a
Zuk crank of any stroke made from titanium for a mere 9-10k..


Pistons for a Zuk engine..
Well depends on what you want to do.. are you looking for a turbo application?
pump gas? Propane/CNG? Race Fuel? E85? I found a whole slue of different
pistons and combination of to fit 1.3 and 1.6. For a basic engine (stock but
better) Flat tops work and are easy to get for an 8V engine.
But for those who want to know whats what you need to look at several
factors besides bore diameter. Bore is the biggy but you must know what the
compression height is, as well as valve reliefs, pin Diameter, Pin height, Dome
volume, etc. That's why if you ask MY (and most others) Flat top in a 8V is the
best solution for power gains. Turbo Dish is the best option in my opinion, but
I have seen flat top engines boosted, that just narrows the oops factor a whole
bunch.
Now the 16V engine is a completely different ball game. I have a list of pistons
and there specs I will post up in the AM. For now though, Factory Flat tops for
a 1.6 are NLA.. and the DOHC that come with a Flat top is Also NLA in over
size from Suzuki. Napa though if you need to run flat tops in a 1.6 or a 1.3
SOHC or DOHC 16V can still get generic OE type replacements. for Flats in a
1.6 Cant bore them out, run it like it is and use the 1.3 flat tops with a 1mm
over size and it will fit. Other than that, well you need to move to a Honda, or
Motorcycle piston to get the flat tops or Dome pistons.

bad goat

I am not sure of all these specs for the hardware, I took them from the FSM
and I measured them of the engine I have. you can use these to match up
hardware from any source..
From my note at the shop:
Head Bolts
Quantity: 10
Size M10-1.5 X 95
Head: 10mm AF, 12 point
Thread Length: 34mm from bottom of bolt
Washer: Captive Flat 2mm thick, 17mm OD.
Head Bolt Holes in Block
Total Depth in Block: 41mm from deck to bottom
Thread Depth in Block: 35mm which starts ~6mm below deck
Head Bolt Holes in Head
Top of Head: 10.4mm OD.
Bottom of Head: 13mm OD.
Head Thickness (with reference to head bolt mounting): 61.5mm
Bolt Head / Washer Area Available on Head: Exactly 17mm OD as per OEM
Bolt Washer
Main Bolts
Quantity: 10
Size: M10-1.5 X 70
Head: 14mm AF Hex
Thread Length: 32mm from bottom of bolt
Washer: Captive Flat 2mm thick, 19mm OD.
Main Caps
Cap Height: 45.0mm
Cap Width: 22.0mm
Hole Size: 10.4mm OD.
Bolt Head / Washer Area Available on Cap: 19mm as per OEM Bolt Washer
Main Bolt Holes in Block
Total Depth in Block: 34.6mm from deck to bottom
Thread Depth in Block: 24mm which starts ~4mm below deck.
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts
Quantity: 6
Size: M10-1.25 X 18.5
Head: 17mm AF Hex
Thread Depth: 18.5mm
Washer: None
Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolts
Quantity: 6
Size: M8-1.25 x 16.5
Head: 12mm AF Hex
Thread Depth: 12mm from bottom of bolt - (No thread on top 4.5mm where
captive washer sits)
Washer: Captive Spring 1.2mm thick, 13mm OD.
ARP recommends these part numbers for the mains and head bolts.

Quantity: 10
Size: M10-1.5 X 70
Head: 14mm AF Hex
Thread Length: 32mm from bottom of bolt
Washer: Captive Flat 2mm thick, 19mm OD.
Main Caps
Cap Height: 45.0mm
Cap Width: 22.0mm
Hole Size: 10.4mm OD.
Bolt Head / Washer Area Available on Cap: 19mm as per OEM Bolt Washer
Main Bolt Holes in Block
Total Depth in Block: 34.6mm from deck to bottom
Thread Depth in Block: 24mm which starts ~4mm below deck.
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts
Quantity: 6
Size: M10-1.25 X 18.5
Head: 17mm AF Hex
Thread Depth: 18.5mm
Washer: None
Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolts
Quantity: 6
Size: M8-1.25 x 16.5
Head: 12mm AF Hex
Thread Depth: 12mm from bottom of bolt - (No thread on top 4.5mm where
captive washer sits)
Washer: Captive Spring 1.2mm thick, 13mm OD.
ARP recommends these part numbers for the mains and head bolts.


Quote
Hey Michael,
When you are ready, I found some studs that will work for you.
(on the stud for the Main, we do have longer ones for the main girdle)
Head stud:
#AM4.600-1LB
1" of thread length on both ends
Thread pitch -1.5 on one end and -1.25 on the other end.
4.600" OAL
10MM
8740 Chrome moly- material
Main stud:
#AM2.725-2B
.650" thread length on one end and 1.000" on the other.
Thread pitch -1.5 on one end and -1.25 on the other end.
2.725" OAL
10MM
ARP2000 -material
Thx , Steve

Nagtrainer

Thanks for saving this. I lost almost all my old notes. I either misplaced them or they got copied over by the misses