MY-Side 1 and 2 basics

[MY]

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[zuksadmin]

Tunning tips from MY


Ok simple stuff. I have provided this specific tech to thousands of people. It works.

Your job is to match the fuel flow to your engine demand.

This is done by drilling the main jet of the Harley carb. The reason why the jet drop set is required is each drill adds a drop. Not much so we make it perfect by testing.

Because this system atomizes the fuel so well these engines run best at height timing with full vacuum port. There are aftermarket mods available for distributor timing. We can assist you with those. Only if you are not 100% satisfied with the kits and IF you have good compression.

So you can set timing with our way before you fix top end. It's quite normal to get the first report similar to yours: really snappy hood bottom end but fades away at wot.

Solution: add more fuel.


First timing.
Use one of the two side by side ports that are horizontal to the car. Located between the carb and the water housing cap for the t-stat. Pointing at the fender. Put a vac line directly to the distributor dash pot. Before you connect it to the intake. Apply vacuum and see if it holds? If not no worries! Suzuki distributors have weights that override static timing.

Note: the only other vac line is from charcoal can to vertical port next to PCV valve.
Note: Don't use vacuum caps to close off ports. Use 1 hose to connect two ports. If you have an odd or a bigger size use 2" of rubber hose  and bolt/screw in the end will last a long time. Vac caps are not required or used.

The carb is stock with a 48 idle, a fixed needle, a 220 main jet.

Think of three circuits
Idling issue is the idle jet.

Midrange is the needle that goes up and down with the slide.

Wide open throttle is the main jet.

Pick you the 40 drill and put it in a hand held drill tool.

Remove the carb by leaving on the fuel line, throttle cable, choke cable.

Remove the clamping rods that holders the T plate farthest from the engine.

Pull T plate and carb away from engine.

Put rag on top of carb.

Rotate upside down and catch all the fuel in the rag.

Remove the four Philips screws in the corners of the float bowl.

Lift bowl and grab the L rod. It's loose and held into place by the float bowl. The rod goes thru the little rubber bellows on the side of the float bowl.
Secure for reinstalling.

The highest piece of brass is the main jet. It has a slot in it to change. Right below the circular head of the main jet is a 8mm or 5/16" open end wrench hex. Hold the emulsifier tube with a wrench and unscrew main jet. Hold head in pliers NOT THE THREADS. Run drill thru. Blow out chips with air or carb cleaner.

Reassemble.

Crank to fill fuel bowl.

Rpms are not that important but timing is

It needs to be set to 18-20 dbtdc at warm idle. This is where they run the best

If your distributor dash pot doesn't leak vacuum connect to the port mentioned. Leave connected and time.

Of your dash pot leaks do not connect to intake manifold. Just time to same 18-20 at warm idle


Report back about the improvement. It might not be at its highest potential yet. When you are happy with wot read below.














The test of A/F in a cv carb.

Flat road no uphill or downhill for miles. No headwind or tailwind.

Get going as fast as you can go in highest gear it will max out and hold there.

Back your skinny pedal up one inch and hold. Pay attention to tach-speedo-wind noise-engine reving-

This may take 1/4 mile but it will do one of two things.

Go faster
Slow down.

If you go faster when you back gas pedal you are lean. Drill again.

When you slow down and then apply that last inch and it speeds up -that's it.