ZuksOffRoad Forum

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I was unable to start the engine because the carb was off. I towed it home from my mechanic's shop to wait for the rebuilt carb to arrive. I too suspect that I wasn't getting the Tcase in neutral. May have helped if I rocked the car back and forth a bit?

Follow up on CA compliant Hitachi Carb from National Carburetors
I ordered the carb on the 19th and paid to have it shipped UPS 2 day. They had to rebuild the carb they had first.
I was amazed to see that it was shipped by Wednesday the 21st and arrived on Friday the 23rd at 3PM. Can't complain about that quick turn around!! It looks like a great job on the rebuild. Will have to see how it performs. It also came with a prepaid return label.

 

This is the company I ordered the rebuilt Hitachi carb from. They were able to rebuild one that they had in stock and ship it in 3 days. I paid for 2 day UPS shipping and expect delivery tomorrow. I will let you know if it is all they said it would be.

https://nationalcarburetors.com/

Great that you found someone to rebuild that Hitachi Monster!  Can you provide all of us a link to the rebuilder?
Also let us know how it goes.

Jim.

I always do what you did...
2nd gear in the tranny
Tcase in neutral.
Hubs unlocked.

BUT I do the next thing.

Start the engine!
let the clutch out and there should be no drive to the rear wheels.
This proves that you are in Tcase Neutral.

If you have done this and have drive to the rear wheels then the Tcase is not in neutral.
Test and see if you can get Hi and Low in both 2wd and 4wd... I would suspect that you're going to find that one of those will not work.  If they do then it sounds like you are not finding the neutral position of the shifter... Hopefully you find it.
Jim.

Got that problem fixed. Went out wheeling and now it won't go into low gear only high. Any suggestions?

My question is "why did my attempt to flat tow my '88 tin top not work when I followed the Suzuki directions to the letter? Tranny in second and transfer case in neutral, hubs unlocked. The rear wheels would "hop" as soon as the car moved. I was only able to eliminate this by take the tranny out of gear. I think I may have to resort to spending the $$$ to install a disconnect on the drive shaft. Anyone have an idea as to why the rear wheels hopped?
I was thinking that maybe the transfer case failed to disengage?

Thanks for all of the input. Oh, and I'm in Loveland, not horrible Denver. I try not to go there. So, I have searched the web and think I have found a shop that sells "rebuilt" Hitachi carbs that are CA compliant. Thus, should meet CO emissions. I am still waiting for delivery and will let you know if I am successful. Sorry I have been slow responding to all of the messages. I'm somewhat "computer challenged" and not very savvy with these forums.

Contact me at Zuksoffroad.com for one on one tech

Thought I'd check back in with a progress report on the repair and upgrades. The radiator had to go, couldn't rely on the repairs any longer.  First tried ordering (Rock Auto) one just by the simple dimensions I could get from it in place.  The overall width was a little short, nothing some spacers couldn't fix. Fan shroud lined up, but the bottom positioning pins were 3/4" off. Thought about some fab work, but now that I had it out, I could get better dimensions. Second one I ordered, spot-on-match.

So, why not replace the water pump (WP), t-stat, hoses and belts while I'm in there.  Even though it never got any real milage on it, they're all hitting about 17 years.  I'm thinking 3-4 hours, but after my 7th hour, all I was thinking is those damn Japs!  First the fan then the WP pulley, timing belt shroud, belt, belt tensioner and that funky little set-up...who puts the WP behind the timing belt.               

Okay, all out and cleaned up, first of the three hoses installed. Now the belt and tensioner, found the marks on the top pulley and lined it up, now the harmonizer pulley...wait where are they?  The tear drop is in plain sight, but where's the pulley mark?   Must have rotated that pulley 50 times and still couldn't find it.  I'm thinking I've got to remove the pulley to find it. Before that I decided to take a break and web-search it a little. What I find is that there is no mark on the pulley, it's the spindle key slot, 12 o'clock straight up, that's the mark!  After that, the rest on the install went fine.  Cooling system all done.  Now on to the transmission.